It was early on the Saturday
morning
before Memorial Day when we
jumped in the car and started our short trip. We had a long weekend
ahead of us. As well as endless roads that weaved like ribbons
before disappearing somewhere over the horizon.
We crossed
Continental Divine, drove through the Eisenhower Tunnel, and took the
first exit to Silverthorne, which we passed with one short stop to enjoy
some sculptures of the frozen actors next to the Lake Dillon Theatre
Company. That was fun, actually. We stretched our legs and got back on the road... it was a beautiful
morning... sunny and quiet... and we really enjoyed the road that looked like an endless ribbon.
We left the beaten path in Heeley and drove around Green Mountain Reservoir. We admired the views there. And
this small village turned out to be more attractive than we expected. We
even started thinking about having a small cabin here, so we can have a
datcha and enjoy escaping from the summer heat.
We passed Kremmling and began to climb up so we crossed the mountains at the Rabbit Ears Pass. Surprisingly, there was a lot of snow up there. Much more than we expected. Steamboat Springs didn’t catch our attention this time, so we passed by, deciding to stop for a short rest a bit later, probably in Craig.
Finally, 200 miles and 4 hours behind us, we were tired enough to make a
pit stop, stretch our legs and to have something to bite. Craig is a
small town in the middle of nowhere and a good place to spend some time
exploring. Downtown is small and quiet, and when
we locked the car and started walking, it was
very sleepy.
We didn’t really have any
expectations, so it was really nice to find many nicely carved wooden
benches and
sculptures here and there. Several small shops, beautiful murals on the
walls of the shops... We decided on a "cool place" and were really happy
that we stopped there.
There doesn't seem to be much history here... but no, there are some
stories about this place. The Ute Indians were the last Native American
tribe inhabiting the Yampa Valley before settlers moved into the area
in the 1800s. The tribes had carved their existence on rock walls. Later,
cattle and sheep men etched their legacy in the vast territory through
range wars and skirmishes as the land was opened to ranching,
agriculture, and hunting. By 1881 early homesteaders arrived and a post
office was established by cattle king Ora Haley.
Businessman W.H.
Tucker, prompted by talk of a railroad being built through the area,
traveled from Glenwood Springs in 1887. Seeking to profit from the
rumor, he secured land and established the town of Craig in 1889.The
railroad wasn’t built until 24 years later, but its arrival opened the
area to national cattle and sheep markets. Today, it solely transports
coal.
Craig, named for Rev. Bayard Craig in 1889, was
incorporated as a city on April 24, 1908. Craig became the county seat
when Moffat County was created out of the western portion of Routt
County on February 27, 1911. In the same area as Craig, at the
confluence of the Yampa River (then known as the Bear River) and
Fortification Creek, were previous towns known as Yampa (as early as
1885) and Windsor (as early as 1878). In 1878 the area consisted of a
number of ranches and at least two businesses: Himley’s Ferry (which
allowed crossing of the Yampa River) and Peck's Store (a one room
trading post).
Set in a high-desert landscape, Craig is a
thriving town steeped in cowboy and Native American history as well as
gunfighter and outlaw lore.
In the late 1800s cattlemen, lured by
the region’s mild winters, game, grass, and water, arrived and settled
the area. They left a colorful western history complete with range wars
and gunfights. Because of the area’s remoteness and access to three
state borders, outlaws — Butch Cassidy, Sundance Kid, Isom Dart, Tom
Horn and Matt Rash — also frequented the region. Brown’s Hole, now
Browns Park, was home to a few of them before it became a refuge for
wildlife.
Did you know that Craig, Colorado is central to a long
history of sheep ranching? I guess even for now this is one of the
biggest businesses in the area. In the 1970s and early 1980s, the largest
power generation plant in Colorado and several coal mines were
constructed near Craig.
So this town left some interesting
pages in the history
book. We enjoyed walking around downtown, spent
some time in the museum (will talk about it in the next story) and
moved on.
We still had some more places to see. But first, we saw the road... the endless road...
The next town
that caught us was Maybell, a really small town named after May
Bell, the wife of a local cattleman.
This town is tiny and you
can
only
find a meat processing plant, general store with gas pumps, a
garage, an elementary school, a residential hotel, a restaurant, a post
office, and housing. Not much... not much...
The most famous of all
these are the General Store and gas station, both established in 1933 and
serving the locals and travelers every day. We filled up the gas tank as a sign
informed us there were no gas stations for the next 57 miles and moved further
with the intention of not stopping for at least the next 57 miles.
Pictures were taken on May 25, 2019.
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